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Ground floor, first floor and the roof

Twenty-six rooms on four sides

Every room has its own bathroom, a window that opens fully and a duvet filled in the valley. What changes from one kind to the next is the side of the house, and with it the light.

How the floors are laid out

The house is a long block running east to west beside the road. The lake side looks north over the meadow to the water, and the Fex side looks south up the valley. The slope side is the short west end, dug into the hill. Corner rooms take the eastern corners, which is why they have windows on two walls.

There's no lift. The stair is wide and shallow and the luggage goes up in a goods hoist from the hall. If stairs are hard for you, ask for one of the two ground-floor Fex rooms.

Lake side room with an oak bedside table and a wool runner across the bed

Lake side, eight rooms

North-facing, so the light stays cool all day and turns pink on the water after six. Oak furniture and a runner woven in Poschiavo.

The lake side
Fex side room with a larch headboard, a grey wall and a writing chair

Fex side, nine rooms

South-facing and the warmest in winter. Larch headboards, a writing table at the window, the valley straight ahead.

The Fex side
Slope side room with walnut panelling and a reading lamp over the bed

Slope side, five rooms

Walnut panelling and the hill a few metres off. The darkest rooms in the building, and the ones poor sleepers ask for by name.

The slope side
Corner room bed made up with navy striped pillows and a lamp behind

Corner, four rooms

Two walls of windows, the largest floors and space for a third bed. One per floor, except the top, which has two.

The corner rooms
Bathroom lined in pale timber with two basins on one long shelf

Bathrooms

All twenty-six were rebuilt in 2019 in pale timber and granite from the Bregaglia side of the pass. Showers everywhere; baths only in the corner rooms.

Towels get changed when you leave them on the floor, not before.

In every room

  • A window that opens all the way, with a fly screen in summer.
  • A kettle, a moka pot and ground coffee from a roaster in Chiavenna.
  • Blackout curtains, which matter in June when it's light before five.
  • A rack above the radiator for gloves and wet socks.
  • No television. The one in the lounge is switched on for ski races and nothing else.

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